No title necessary.

My apartment ran out of water today.  What a great day for it to happen... it's pouring rain and extremely windy AND everyone is coming back/to visit today.  Hope they all had a decent shower before they boarded their flights to Catania.

Pasta

I think it is absolutely safe to say that the stereotype or cliché is 100% correct: Italians make the best pasta.  Hands down.  I don't care who you are or if you think your mother or grandmother (unless they hail from Italy) makes great pasta, they probably do... but it's not the best.
Here's what makes me think this:  Back home I don't really eat pasta all that much, really the only time I have pasta is if my mom makes it, or we go to Cafe Graziani... in which case I get Chef Giovanni's Chicken and Broccoli (which if you are reading this and have the chance to get there, should try it or any of his food for that matter!)  Here pasta is such a staple it's not even funny.  Part of this is because it is simple to make, and is extremely inexpensive.  It's not that difficult to boil water and throw in a handful of pasta and create a dish.  Most days I sautee veggies with a little bit of pasta, some days I use pesto others tomato sauce.  If I have run out of veggies I will do a simple olive oil, garlic and peperoncino pasta.  Simple, tasty and fulfilling.  Yesterday I was sitting at the school writing a paper with Audrey, one of the girls in my program, and Franca came into the room and said, "Grace. Audrey.  How about we have pasta with oil and peperoncino for lunch?"  We both replied by saying that we had just eaten a panino but thank you anyway.  Franca responded with, "Ok, but you will have just a little bit.  I will wait to make it until 1:30 more or less that way it will be ok." (it was 12:30)  So Audrey and I didn't have a choice we were going to have a second lunch.  When Franca served us we both remarked at how delicious it was.  I whispered under my breath to Audrey asking if she thought there was butter along with the oil because it had another flavor.  Audrey said that there must be because it was extra tasty.  We asked Franca, and she said that the dish was just pasta, olive oil, peperoncino, and garlic.  That simple! I thought to myself, when I make this it does not taste that good! So I decided (basing my conclusion on Giovanni and Franca) that the best pasta is made by Italians, no ifs ands or buts.

This is an Interim Tunisia post... I'm still working on my other one with pictures

As part of our Arcadia core Sicily course the school took us to Tunisia from March 1 - March 6. From my experience here in Ortigia I went into the trip with an open mind, and was careful not to make an presumptions despite what I had been told about Tunisia. Franca told us to be careful of the water, and to use bottled water to brush our teeth and wash our faces after we showered. And as part of our orientation we were advised to buy Enterogermina (in lay terms anti-diarrhea meds).

We departed Ortigia at 6 am on the 1st and took a bus to Palermo, where we would then fly to Tunis. We were met by Ramzi (who is a native of Sousse, Tunisia) and his girlfriend Liz. We took a chartered bus to our hotel, Hotel Lido and quickly set off to visit the Bardo Museum which houses many mosaics. Before I talk about the Bardo Museum, let me just say that driving in Tunisia is an incredible experience... and not incredible in a good way. There were many times that I thought I was going to die. It appears as if there are no rules of the road and pedestrians and vehicles just move forward whenever they see the smallest space in the packed streets. One thing that I noticed immediately about Tunis (the first city we were visiting) was the amount of smog in the air. Even though the skies were clear the air was a tad dense, which caused me to think that I would probably become sick, because of my asthma.

At the Bardo Museum our tour guide was a dainty woman with a thick French accent (French is one of the common languages of Tunisia, along with Arabic).  Because we arrived shortly before the museum was to close she gave us the speediest tour I have ever been a part of.  She told us of the mosaics, most of which came from the Romans.  I wish I could remember more, but between her accent and the speed of her monologues I could hardly retain any information.

That night at the hotel we partook in an "Arabic" night to recognize the Tunisian Revolution.  Ramzi sang songs, there was a band that played traditional Arabic music, and there were several recitations of poetry and stories of those impacted directly by the Tunisian Revolution.  It was truly a remarkable thing to witness.  And though I could not understand a single word that was being said I could feel the intense energy that resonated through the room.

The next morning after breakfast we visited the Carthage, an archaeological site of the ancient city, and its museum.  Once again we saw many mosaics.  The day was absolutely beautiful, and you could absolutely see why Carthage was such a great force in ancient times.  It is located high on a hill overlooking a massive harbor, which is then surrounded by the tips of Tunisia.  This makes it an ideal location for both military and commercial gains.  We were also given a detailed description of the history of Carthage by one of the museum workers.  She was very knowledgeable and passionate about all she had to say on the subject.  After our visit to Carthage we went to have tea at this beautiful cafe in Sidi Bou Said.  It overlooks a marina which is probably one of the most beautiful sites located in Tunis.  The tea we were served was to die for, one of my roommates, Jill, and myself were trying to figure out how they brew the tea.  We couldn't, but what I can tell you is they serve it in a glass and top it with fresh pine nuts and mint leaves.  Later we went to have lunch, and during this time our bus was broken into.  After this happened all any of us wanted to do was travel to Sousse, our next destination, and just be in the comfort of the hotel.  But, we had to continue in Tunis to see the site of the Revolution, which I am glad we did.  I was taken aback by all the remaining barbed wire which lined the inner sidewalks.  From one part of the Revolution we walked through a market where vendors harass you to buy their merchandise, to see another square where events took place.  After this eventful day we embarked on the three hour ride to Sousse.

Saturday we were headed to the Medina of Sousse to visit local mosques and shop in the market.  In the mosques all of the women had to veil their heads, and some of our group had to veil their legs as well.  It was really neat to see the inside of the mosques.  The air in the Medina was filled with dirt and was very humid, which aggravated my lungs and I started my deep chest coughs.  As we walked through the market I continued to cough and cough, which prompted Susi (our Sicily core course professor) to tell me I should probably go to the doctors upon our return to Ortigia.  I didn't want to think about that, I just wanted to enjoy the market, so I told her I was fine and continued.  The market was fascinating.  The exchange rate from US dollars to Tunisian Dinars is incredible, and in total I only spent about $15US.  The items they have in the markets are fantastic.  The scarves/pashminas are so beautiful, and the handmade pottery is absolutely gorgeous.  I think what is incredible about the items in the market are all of the designs.  They are so vibrant and ornate they seem to lift your soul just by looking at them.  By our return to the hotel it was very difficult for me to breathe so I went to bed and skipped out on the evening festivities.

Sunday I woke up with half of my voice, but I knew I needed to fully wake up because this was going to be our longest day yet.  We travelled to El Djem to see the colosseum (where Gladiator scenes were filmed).  When we arrived there we rode camels to the colosseum and then toured the great structure.  From El Djem we travelled to Kairouan (which is known as the set for Raiders of the Lost Ark... Ramzi's father was an extra in the movie and can be seen laughing behind Harrison Ford during one of the scenes, he is going to show us the scene when he returns from Tunisia).  We visited the Holy Mosque of Uqba, where we had to veil our heads once again.  Then we saw local rugmakers shops and toured one of them.  Area rugs can take upwards of one month to create, because it is all done by hand.  From here we travelled to Sidi Bouzid, where Ramzi's mother is from, and the location where major clashes between the locals and police sparked parts of the revolution.  Here we travelled up into the mountains to visit a local group and their mosque.  It was a very humbling experience.  They welcomed us with open arms and warm smiles.  We were able to tour the mosque and view the 'burial' (shrine) of one of their "saints".  I was fortunate enough to walk through with Ramzi's mother, who was beside herself in both her faith and joy.  She touched the green silky veiled casket and recited scripts in Arabic.  She held onto the bars which separate everyday folk from climbing atop the casket.  I could actually see that she felt this "saints' " presence, and it was actually affecting her.  She then made a donation of white candles, and placed them gently on top of the green veil.  The group of locals then brought us on a mini pilgrimage to the lake where they get their water.  It was absolutely stunning, and even though I had a difficult time breathing I felt like something was urging me forward with all of these people.  They then invited us for a barbecue (fresh lamb/sheep, and salads).  These people we offering us so much, one of their freshly killed sheep, fruits, vegetables, bottled water, coca-cola, and nuts.  They insisted that they had eaten before we arrived, but I couldn't help but feel fortunate for their hospitality.  We learned that for Arabics it is customary for them to serve and give (endlessly) to their guests, and once their guests have enjoyed their fill they partake in what is left.  It was absolutely amazing that they would offer us so much when they had so little.  After the food they offered us small trinkets that they made by hand.  I received a bronze painted turtle, which was really neat.  

The following day we had to travel back to Ortigia the way we came.  Bus to Tunis, plane to Palermo, bus to Ortigia.  When we arrived in Ortigia Susi took me to the doctor with the diagnosis of: a respiratory infection, fevers, ear infection, and pharyngitis.  Thanks Tunisia!

One of the greatest things that I have witnessed while abroad is the generosity of others.  I have this sense that in the US people fend more for themselves, and in a sense are selfish, whereas in Sicily and Tunisia I have witnessed endless generosity.  I am constantly in awe of these people who may have less than we do back in the US, but offer so much.  I spoke about this with Franca and she said that the only thing that she needs to make her truly happy is the love of her family, and she would rather give more than she can bargain than to see someone else unhappy or suffer if she might have been able to help them.  The experience I had with the group in the mountain (and with Franca) have definitely made a great impact on my life and the way I am going to view the world, and I will cherish the feeling/memories for the rest of my life.

Un cafè? Un tè? Un me?

March 7, 2012

Hooray! I was able to Skype with M.E. today :).  It is raining here in Ortigia which means that our internet is absolute crap, so I went to the school to 'pilfer' the internet.  Franca was going to close the school at 1700 so she could take one of the girls who had her stuff stolen to get a new camera.  So I called M.E. to wake her up!  Man am I a mean person... haha.  It was so great to talk to her about Ortigia, Tunisia, and our birthdays.  Hahaha (I kept all the juicy details out of the blog... and probably won't reveal them to anyone reading this, but who knows.)  Franca brought Jen (stolen camera), Cait and I to a media store in Siracusa.  Then she took us to her sister Palmina's apartment for a bit of tea.  Together they are absolutely hilarious, making small jokes at one another, but all out of love.  I absolutely love observing the actions of twins, because their bond is so much more special than anyone who is a singleton could ever imagine.  While Palmina made the tea we conversed with each other about where we were coming from and my disgusting cough.  Palmina said that she gets sick like that too, to which Franca responded with a witty remark.  Cait and I helped Franca and Palmina with the pronunciation of certain words, like the difference between sheet and sh*t, and three and tree.  Even though the visit was short, it was very fun and a nice break from doing nothing.

Agrigento (mostly pictures)

On the 3rd of February we went to Agrigento, an archaeological site in Sicily.  There we saw the ruins of Greek temples and then went into a museum to look at pots.  Let me tell you that pots are so boring.  It was cool to look at them, but my god! Unfortunately for me one of my classes, an archaeology class, has a whole section on pots.  In fact for our midterm exam we have to do a pottery identification (identifying the fabric, grits, painting, clay, figures etc.) which I plan on failing.  Here are some pictures of the trip (I am terrible at captions, because I forget what half of them are... I'm such a bad tourist/blogger).

Mt. Etna (on the way to Agrigento)

Topographic low! You know what that means?! (WATER!)

Yea, I did it.

Tombs

Frankie standing in front of ancient burial areas

Any bats in the cave?

Pit grave

more pit graves

A child's pit grave

Tomb

A child's tomb

"We're so thrilled to be here!"

a bee for Rich